It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. That is certainly not normal! So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. I did notice that when I thought I had it set Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. Cheers Darren. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. Hello Chris. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Or alternator? The distributor was loose. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. holley efi. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. Don't try to correct for the fuel. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. I looking for your expert opinion. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). I recently install a sniper efi. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. Try it! But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. Try it! After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Duty Cycle% = 3 Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. That is the only way to fly. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Jump on board now! To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. shut truck off. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. One of them might be faulty. The IAC going to 30 is normal. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. $107.95. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to Tried that and it didn't work? It is simply for the benefit of the user. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. Several good bits here. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. Chris, The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes.
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